How to make tomato soup

Nov 24, 2023

At this time of year, tomatoes are cheap as chips – turn them into a simple soup that’s more reliable than the British summer

For all the nostalgic comfort of tinned tomato soup – there’s nothing quite like it when you’re feeling a bit sorry for yourself – its sugary, faintly boiled flavour bears but a passing resemblance to the fruit itself. But, towards the end of summer, when good tomatoes are cheap as chips, celebrate with the real deal – a dish perfectly suited to the meteorological vagaries of the British summer.

Prep 10 minCook 1 hr 25 minServes 4

1kg ripe tomatoes4 tbsp olive oilSalt and pepperA pinch of sugar1 onion1 carrot2 garlic cloves1 small bunch basil600ml chicken or vegetable stock1 tbsp balsamic or wine vinegar2 tbsp creme fraiche, to finish (optional)Extra-virgin olive oil, to serve

Go for whatever tomatoes are both ripe and well priced, though I’d avoid using only very small varieties, not only because they’ll take an age to prepare, but because they’re likely to make the finished dish too sweet. In combination with larger fruit, however, they’re fine, as are a few green tomatoes or, indeed, over-ripe ones.

Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6, and cut all the tomatoes in half. Lightly grease and line a baking dish (or two, depending on size), then arrange the fruit cut side up inside. Drizzle the tomatoes with half the oil and season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar, unless the tomatoes are very ripe and sweet.

Bake the tomatoes for about an hour, keeping an eye on them towards the end of this time, because how long they take will depend on their size and your oven. They’re ready when they’re soft, but still holding their shape, and just beginning to char around the edges: don’t let them dry out or blacken.

While the tomatoes are cooking, peel the onion and cut into evenly sized dice, and do the same with the carrot (though there’s no need to peel it, unless it’s very grubby). Put the remaining two tablespoons of olive oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan on a medium heat, then fry both the onion and carrot, stirring regularly to ensure they don’t burn, for about seven minutes, until golden and softened.

Meanwhile, peel and finely chop the garlic and pick the basil leaves off their stalks. Set aside the leaves for now and roughly chop the stalks. Once the carrot and onion have softened, add the chopped stalks and garlic to the pan, and fry, stirring, for a couple of minutes, then take off the heat and set aside until the tomatoes are ready.

When the tomatoes are out of the oven, reheat the onion pan, then tip in the tomatoes and any juices from the tray. Stir well, then pour in the stock – I find chicken more neutral than vegetable stock, which can have strong herbaceous notes, but use that, or just water, if you prefer.

Bring the stock to a simmer, turn down the heat, cover and cook for about 25 minutes. Take off the heat, leave to cool slightly, then use a stick or jug blender to whizz to a smooth puree (remember that hot liquid and blenders can be an explosive combination: never fill the jug more than half full).

Reheat the soup if serving immediately; if not, leave to cool, then refrigerate, if necessary. Stir in the vinegar (if using red- or white-wine vinegar, add to taste, because they lack the sweetness of balsamic) and creme fraiche; if you’re keeping this plant-based, substitute vegan cream or a glug of extra olive oil instead.

Check the seasoning and adjust with salt or a little more sugar, if required. Divide between bowls and tear the basil leaves over the top. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil or an extra swirl of creme fraiche; tomato soup is also very good with freshly made pesto, a little grated cheese or some smoky chilli sauce or chilli oil on top.